 |
Metrored
|
We have a full day ahead in Santiago!
After breakfast at the hotel, we get on the Red De Metro, or MetroRed. Santiago has a simple yet expansive underground metro, that goes well beyond the city center. From the street, you go down one level to shops, and then another level to the trains. Ticket price about $1.30 no matter how far you go. Even with no spanish skills, it is easy to read the station map.
We go to Pueblitos Los Dominicos, The colonial church stands at the end of the street just behind the metro station, and then off to the right is an ambling park of 180 artisan studios, shops, cafes. Full of trees it was lovely for a hot day, the caged birds were lively (and for sale), small shops and stalls are intriguing. I ended up buying a few handcrafted items, but no luck on the yarn. Jim can always find a bench in the shade to wait. A leather shoemaker had some interesting styles, but sadly nothing in our size. We Americans are larger than Chileans...if we'd had 5 days, we could have had something made! We finish at Pueblitos with cheese empanadas for lunch....like grilled cheese sandwich but in a flaky pastry.
 |
| Christmas balls in the trees! |
Back on the metro, since we are starting at the "end of the line", there are lots of open sets...yeah, no standing. We return to General O'Higgins by our hotel, and enjoy a Cuban style band entertaining on the street. An exterior view of the Inglesia San Francisco, before we take a short rest before our short city tour.
We get a private tour with Rodrigo, who has lived also in Los Angeles. So it's easy to learn a few things as he drives us around the city center. We pass by the elegant library, and work our way into the Republic neighborhood, now known as the University neighborhood. I probably don't have all my facts straight, but it will give you an idea...there are 35 neighborhood communities in Santiago. Each one has a mayor, and each mayor is motivated to keep up his neighborhood, to be elected to city-wide office.
 |
Inglesia San Francisco
|
 |
| Library, I think |
The Repulic neighborhood has large stately homes, that used to belong to the wealthiest. But lacking air conditioning or backyards, they moved to the city outskirts, and this inner city neighborhood was abandoned for years. Then it was decided the buildings could serve as classroom space for university students, and slowly a transformation of the area is in process. We pass by many homes for sale, even one that looks like the Adams Family lived there!
Along our drive we see graffiti on almost every building. Our guide says it is not gangs (and he would know, having lived in LA), but it is student protests. And it's true, we would see students with signs and trying to collect money for their causes.
The Presidential Palace is elegant, but they did not allow visitors inside. If is an office building, the President lives elsewhere. We also see the "former" building of congress, now not in use. For some reason, the congress works from Valparaiso, but the president and supreme court are in Santiago.
 |
| Chilean flag |
Lots of Catholic Churches, as this is the main religion. To encourage conversion of the original Mapucho natives, the churches would be built on top of sacred indian ground. I don't know, sounds like the churches could be haunted?
We pass by the Central Market (Mercado) where they sell fish. Fishing is the 3rd most important export for Chile. The first is Copper, followed by wood. Finishing out the top 5 are produce and wine. Copper was not the original main export. Prior to WWII, it was nitrate mining, used in explosives. But the Germans invented artificial nitrates, and it was a blow to Chilean economy. As copper prices have risen, so has Chilean wealth.
 |
| former Congress hall |
 |
| Mercado Central |
 |
| first jail, Santa Lucia |
From the city streets and tall buildings, I was surprised to find that there are little hills in Santiago that you cannot see from below! We head up Cerro Santa Lucia. The Spanish fortress founded by Pedro de Valdivia became the start of Santiago. Cutting into rock, it was impenetrable to the natives. The first Santiago jail is found here. Rising steeply up the hill, we reach Terraza Caupolita, a place where indians were killed who continued to reject the Spaniards. Finally climbing to the top, I get amazing views over the city. And the Andean mountains that surround, hard to see with the smog.
 |
| San Cristobal in distance |
One of the taller hills I can see is Cerro San Cristobal and the Statue of the Virgin. We hear the funicular that takes you to the top is not working, so remain happy to see it from afar (it's a tiny white thing among antennas).
Now we head to Bellavista, a neighborhood that is known as artsy and bohemian. Graffiti is art. Drinking is over the top! The neighborhood is just across the tiny Mapocho River from Santa Lucia, the river is just a muddy stream today, it does run from the Andes though. After a quick drive-through, Jim and I decide to go back tonight for dinner.
In the meantime, we head back to the hotel and note the Tallest Building in South America this is under construction.
Back to Bellavista. Friday evening, the outdoor dining tables are packed with beer-drinking young people. We go to a 2-block area called Patio Bellavista, and browse some shops. Shopper Jim decides that his 14-year old wallet is about finished, and gets a new leather one. And then we eat at a Peruvian restaurant...ceviche to start, and then Chilean Sea Bass (corvina) which you can no longer find in the US. Delicious, in the shade after a long, full, hot day.
On our way out, we wander a small flea market, most notable for the wonderful mosaic walkways.
No comments:
Post a Comment