Day 5, Puerto Varas town, and along Lago Llanquihue

We awake to our full day in Puerto Varas, which was promised to be clear.  But, it is still cloudy. At least no rain, it is cold still.

After breakfast (not much of one in hotel), we enjoy the cool air and a walk toward the little town. Really lovely views along the lake, and it's all downhill.

Monday, and we were warned shops might be closed, but were happily faced with everything beginning to open by 11am.  There is a small town square park next to the small beach. Many streets criss-crossing in short blocks, so it is in a way easy to get around, but easy to get turned around!

And along the way, VOILA, there is a yarn/sewing shop! At least here, as opposed to Santiago, you can walk the streets and see the shops, you don't have to go into a galleria.  It is more touristy here, that helps.  I find the typical setup of products behind the counter, and ask to see.  Of course, still only spanish spoken by the friendly shopkeeper, and I manage to get a yarn that "says" it is made in Chile, feels nice.

Sitting on a bench at the small black sand beach, it is really fun to watch a day camp of kids playing in boats.

Church up a hill in Puerto Varas

Back to the hotel after a lunch of papas fritas (french fries)...I walk up the hill, and Jim takes a taxi.  Still no sign of the volcano that is just across the lake, clouds are covering it.

Tree in front of our hotel, that
is beautiful, but blocks any
view of volcan across lake

We take a tour along the western side of the lake for our late afternoon.  Part of the drive is along the Pan-American Highway, and our guide explains the frustration of paying for this 4-lane (2 each direction) toll road in 4 different ways.  He says it was built with tax dollars by government, with a toll.  Now run by a private company, still pay the toll.  There is a tax in the gasoline price to pay for this particular road.  And then there is another tax specifically for the road (I don't recall it).

Llanquihue means roughly Llanqui "peaceful" hue "place". It is a quiet getaway for Chileans.

Llanquihue town is our first point of interest. Pronounced roughly Gee-yahn-kee-hoo. It has an annual wood carving competition.  Winner statues are displayed by the town as public art year-round.

Most of our drive goes along the lake, of the same name Llanquihue. It is fed from the Andes, and exits to the Pacific into the bays where you can find Puerto Montt.









 

The typical older house here will have shingles, that are made of redwood.  The wood is strong and the shingle design is so pretty.  But redwood trees are now more protected, and not being used for new construction.









Still looking out the lake to spot the volcano. There is its base...but still too many clouds. Sigh.

Marcea, a swan, Lago Llanquihue,
Volcan Osorno

A small beach has a trio of beautiful big swan sculptures, look like wood. The story is that Lago Llanquihue used to have a large swan population.  But when the economy went south many years ago, the people killed the swans for food.  So someone made these swans in fond memory.

This region was originally settled by Germans, about 300 years after the Spanish came to Chile. But the Spaniards were further north, this area did not have the large native population, so they settled peacefully to farm.  They built large houses for large families to work the farms.

Some of the wealthier properties still in existence have lovely grounds, large gardens, orchards. This could be for their own use, or some to sell. 

The primary transportation for products in and out of this region is by boat through Puerto Montt.  In fact, the only way to get products south of this region year-round is by boat, as the few roads are impassable expect for a couple months of summer.

Salmon is pen-raised here, employing some techniques used also by the Norwegians. The spawn are raised for some time in the freshwater lake pens. Later they are acclimated to saltwater in a short 72-hour process that includes sedating and slowing adding salt to their environment. Then they finish growing in saltwater pens for a controlled environment. Salmon is a large part of the Chile economy, and this area creates many jobs in the industry.

Another large industry of the region is dairy.  Cheese and milk are produced, this area is so beautiful, I'm sure they are happy cows.  Except, they keep a cow breeding non-stop, maybe 2-3 days after giving birth, before inseminating again.

To feed the cows, the farmers grow feed corn.  This region must be self-sufficient in so many ways.

You can see some snow, almost the top!

Still rounding the lake, checking on the Volcan Osorno...under clouds...but wait, we can see some of the perpetual snow!!!

Our last stop on the western shore is Frutillar. A pretty little town just for tourism.  The nearby homes rent out rooms or full vacation cottages. Very quiet, has a German feeling.  The dark sand beach, with areas roped off for swimming, each area has one lifeguard to manage it.

Frutillar music hall

Frutillar is well known for music festivals.  There is a large, beautifully designed music hall built out onto the lake. As we walk the beach, we find a grand piano metal sculpture. In town, you find many music-themed souvenirs.

Marcea, Volcano Osorno
 background

It is here that we see a tree that has some kind of name involving "monkey".  At first, we think it is a palm with grafted branches, but later learn it is naturally amazingly weird!

Frutillar, shops and restaurants along the beachfront

Frutillar shopping, very relaxing

It's Real

On our way back to Puerto Varas, we see some Chilean Gauchos working on their elegant horse maneuvers. It is a time-honored skill, that pays no money, just done for the glory.

Another entrance view, and cloud-topped volcano backdrop, to Puerto Varas.  We get dropped off downtown for dinner...guess what...more King Crab!