Iceland, Day 7

Jim boarding flight to Reykjavik

Early this morning we fly out of Akureyri to Reykjavik. It is only a 4-5 hour drive, but for some reason our itinerary has us fly...and really it is a TREAT to go to a small airport, no security screening, you just show ID and boarding pass. Prop plane...the clouds were pretty much solid the entire trip, no views of enormous glaciers. We just dozed pleasantly for the 45 minute flight. But I did get a few snaps from the window at take-off and landing.

Leaving Akureyri

Over mountains in Iceland

Approaching Reykjavik

Reykjavik has 2 airports...the International one in Kevlavik that is 46 km out of town and a long drive. Or the regional one that is in town. A controversy brews over relocation of this regional airport. A developer would like the valuable land for development, and
possibly so do the Reykjavik residents.  But the rest of the country depends on this location where a hospital is nearby. Medical services are inadequate in the smaller towns of Iceland, so emergency flights and quick drives are important for them.

Hallgrímskirkja Lutherin Church

We are not staying in Reykjavik, and it is another rainy, cold day. Not many photo ops here. We stop by a large Lutheran Church, that took 40 years to build because of funding problems. It has columns on the outside of volcanic basalt (though somehow it is now white), no stained glass, just tall clear windows and simple interior. The organ is pretty
interesting, though, in a contemporary sculpture kind of way, probably sounds amazing in the hard, cold surfaces of the interior.

Organ at Hallgrímskirkja

We also visited a landmark in Reykjavik called "The Pearl". It is a domed building that can be seen from many parts of the city, it is known for a rotating restaurant. Sadly, pouring rain, no photo to explain it. We did not dine there, really not much else to say.

Reykjavik was not a major city in Iceland until after WWII. It was then that the Allies used Iceland as a staging area. Iceland was neutral in that war, and most, as they have no military...NONE.  The Allies brought industry and jobs to the city, and it grew outward into suburbs, changing Icelandic society too. The subsequent building boom expanded their economy...though it too far with the financial collapse of 2008.  We heard many opinions and explanations about that along our trip...but beyond the banks going bankrupt and people
losing jobs and investments, I cannot do a discussion on the event justice...if you know Jim, he could offer more insight!




earth in tension

Leaving Reykjavik, our road trip takes us to Pingyellir, on the southwestern end of the tectonic plates divide. Just as in the northeast, the land is spreading outward 1 inch per year, but here there is a different kind of tension. The American continental plate is much
higher than the Eurasian plate. You look down on the other plate like from a cliff, it is positively un-nerving, and dramatic. Earthquakes in this region are more violent with this tension. It is still a rainy, cold, windy, day, so again our views are limited. In fact, I get a little wimpy and skip some of the walking.

American continental plate
overlooking Eurasian

Tectonic plates moving



Valley of Eurasian plate,
the plates used to meet on
level ground

In this area, also, is the site of the original Icelandic parliament, the Alping (a rough spelling from the Icelandic).  From the 10th-13th century, the annual gathering here covered both law and justice, creating rules and performing executions. The participants built temporary camps, there was trading, sharing of news, festival activities. A wonderful story shared is of the year of the so-called Christianity Eruptions. News came to the Alping of an eruption in Reykjavik, when the decision to convert from pagan to Christianity had been approved. The people cried that the gods were angry at the conversion. But a wise elder nodded and responded...then were the gods angry as they formed the lava that you stand upon?  'Nuf said.

Gullfoss

Our drive is known as the "Golden Circle", for the ring of highlights. 

It's so cold at Gulfoss,
wind, rain, powerful water,
Jim can only be identified
by his GREAT scarf

After Pingyellir, we see Gullfoss, or "Gold Falls". It's even colder, windier, and rainier than earlier, so can't really appreciate the namesake. But the powerful spray and loud sound make them enjoyable no matter what. Despite my earlier flake-out on a walk, I do venture all the way down the path, until literally standing in the middle of the falls. It was AMAZING! You can see the striking patterns in the volcanic basalt floor, careful not to slip, it's a long way down. It's here that I can't resist taking photos in the rain and waterfall...my camera starts to get very unhappy with me (uh-oh).



Gullfoss, looking from
parking lot



Gullfoss, midway down
from parking lot

Wow! Battling wind, rain,
the power of Gullfoss,
Marcea makes it!

It's hard to imagine that all this water streams even after a thaw of summer. Iceland is
blessed with an abundance of fresh water...one Icelander commented that he thought Iceland
could supply all the water needed for Europe, if only they had a pipeline.

Gullfoss, standing in the middle of it

The volcanic rock over
which the falls go, and
I try to walk "safely"

Geysir area, home of Original Geysir

Final stop of the Golden Circle is Geysir.  This is the area whose name became THE word for geysirs around the world. The intense geothermal activity  erupts into boiling water on the surface, confined to small pools. The activity does shift from one pool for years, to another one, so there are many pools that work differently.

Bright blue geysir pit boils

Colors in geysir pits as they boil

The original Geysir is now dormant...but there is another that blows regularly every few minutes. So we stand...and wait...and there it goes! First time missed the photo, but second time we had a bit of warning and prepared. Not a high blast, super quick, but pretty impressive. The area has lots of boiling mud pits, pretty interesting that the ground
beneath our feet could be quite different next year, as you see the former geysir and mud pits and vegetation growth between. You just can't ignore the volatile geology of Iceland.

Geysir about to blow

Geysir blows in Iceland

Boiling Little Geysir

Letting off steam, it
also shows how strong
the winds are today

Selfoss river by hotel

Our rainy day ends at our hotel in Selfoss. I offer a photo of what is probably a picturesque scene from our hotel window.  Selfoss is the largest town in south Iceland with 6300 residents, the river is the Olfusa.

We were awoken during the night by the whistling sound of the wind, and figured it was typical of the region. BUT we learned the next morning from the desk clerk that he has never seen such strong winds in his 28 years living in the town, so strong he feared the hotel might come down! It was good we thought it was normal, or else I might have opted to sleep under the bed.

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