2013, we'll start in South America

We had two GREAT trips in 2012, to Burma and then Iceland, going with small group OAT tours.  It's a great way to travel, I learn so much from guides who are with you day and night, on the road, talking and sharing.  But it means we were on a schedule, up early and to bed late. Eating at pre-planned places that can handle a tour group.

So, in a few days we are going to South America, just the 2 of us.  Had terrific help from Julie Skalko of Cadence Travel La Jolla, who got all our transportation and hotel needs arranged in advance.  And once there...WHATEVER we want to do!

It's summer in South America, like our July...high 70s-mid 80s in the day, cooler evenings.

Here's the plan...fly to Santiago, Chile for 3 nights.  Then fly south to Puerto Montt/Puerto Varas, lake district of Chile for 2 nights.  Then an all-day trip by boat and bus to Bariloche, Argentina for 2 nights. Fly to Montevideo, Uruguay for 2 nights. Then a ferry to Buenos Aires, Argentina for our final 3 days.  It's 2 weeks in 5 cities, with lots of travel time inbetween.  Not relaxing...unless we end up sitting in cafes all day watching the people go by! 





Our plan of attack (the thin green line)

 

Iceland, Last Day

Last morning view from hotel

Our last day in Iceland! And after all the cold, wind, rain...Iceland treats us to light clouds and mild temperature, first day we don't need a hooded rain jacket. Wishing us bon voyage...or hurry back???

Icelandic Lettlopi yarn for MY sweater

After packing, I make a mad dash for the Kringlander Mall, just 15 minutes walk from our hotel, and buy "just a little bit more" yarn from the department store in the mall.

Lettlopi yarn, "lopi" is the characteristic Icelandic wool that incorporates the sturdy waterproof fibers with the soft warm fleece fibers.  Icelandic knitting has a style of stranded colorwork around the yoke, and I will use the reindeer horn buttons purchased earlier in the trip, with this yarn to make a sweater, ALL Icelandic!

Hofdi House

Early afternoon, we board the bus and take a long time toward the airport. First a drive along the Reykjavik harbor area, where we stop at the Hofdi House. In 1986, it was the site of a summit meeting between Regan and Gorbachev.  You can see how small it is, the Secret Service and KGB had to share rooms!

First telecommunication
received here 1905

This was also the location of the first wireless antenna to receive communication in 1905 from Cornwall England, a private enterprise. The government of Iceland terminated its operations the next year, granting a monopoly on telecommunications to someone else.

Sun Veseel, Reykjavik

A really beautiful sculpture on the waterfront is called "Sun Vessel". I saw it yesterday in the cloudy weather, and I thought it looked like bone, a skeleton.  In the sun today, its metal lines are crisp and graceful.

Reykjavik harborfront

Coast Guard vessel

Across the harbor, we spot a Coast Guard vessel. There is no budget for Coast Guard, so it lies idle.

Reykjavik city center

Reykjavik

In the National Museum

In the museum, knitting tools

Near the city center is the University, and the National Museum of Iceland. I'm not a
museum person, but this was one we all agreed was particularly interesting. It traced the history of Iceland in a 2-story timeline of artifacts. Books of the Settlement and Sagas, knitting tools, seal skin shoes with knit insoles.

In the Museum, seal skin shoes
with knit insoles

Reykjavik apartment complexes

Finally, our last trip through the Reykjavik suburbs, to the Kevlavik airport.  Along the way, we learned that until 1986, Iceland had only ONE TV channel! There was no TV on Thursdays (the station day off), and no TV in July (vacation holiday).

Reykjavik suburb

I probably did not mention earlier about beer in Iceland. They do have a few local breweries, and it is nice enough. Considering the wonderful pure water they can begin with! But I think they must import most ingredients.  Interesting recent history on alcohol...they did have prohibition about the same time as the US.  The ban on wine and
hard liquor was lifted, but the ban on beer remained until 1988! It was considered that beer drinking leads to daytime slackards.

On the way to Kevlavik airport

And a final bit about the cost of goods, Jim reminded me I may not have mentioned. Products and services in Iceland are generally EXPENSIVE. Our few meals together were usually about 4200 ISK (Icelandic Krona) for entree. The exchange rate was 120 ISK per $1, so that meal cost $35 (though it included 25.5% VAT and no tip required). Hotdogs are popular because they cost 350 ISK (under $3). Little souvenirs that we usually pay $5-10, cost $10-30. However, handknit sweaters using Icelandic yarn were nicely priced as they involved no imports (usually around 20,000 ISK, or $166), and my Lopi yarn was really cheap (259 ISK, $2.15 a ball).

Kevlavik

All in all, Iceland is not quite what I expected...it was MORE than I expected!

Iceland, Day 10

Reykjavik suburbs

Today I must be grateful for better weather. There is blue sky and clouds, a light cool wind. We are in Reykjavik, and it is our last full day in Iceland (we leave tomorrow evening).


Driving through Reykjavik in better weather, it is easier to appreciate this little city of 200,000 inhabitants. There is very little interesting architecture. Buildings must be built to survive frequent earthquakes, and the materials available for import are limited. Concrete over metal framing, as well as corrugated iron, are the main materials for
building. No brick or tile, because not only are they less safe in earthquakes, they require sediment material not found in Iceland. The concrete materials are imported.

On our way to the Blue Lagoon, which is out on the peninsula where Kevlavik airport, we
pass through the same lavafields that were a first impression when arriving 9 days ago. 
And it is time to learn about elves.

Elves in Iceland are known as the "hidden people", they can hide and live in little houses
in the lava fields. Icelander children can see and play with the hidden people, but they
are only in the dreams of older people. These hidden people came to be during the time of
Adam and Eve. Eve had several children. One day she was in the process of bathing them,
when God came to visit. She was embarassed for the children not yet bathed, so hid them
away, and presented just her clean children to greet God. He asked her if they were her
only children? Eve replied yes, so God declared that any hidden children would remain
forever hidden. Eve never saw her hidden children again. The Hidden People, elves, are very
cunning, they can grant Icelanders good wishes, or bad fortune. Basically...blame them for
anything that goes right or wrong!  And just in case you are paying attention, elves are
not the same as trolls, who are the giant dummies that also exist in the lava fields.

Geo-thermal plant in distance,
ocean behind the mountain

The Blue Lagoon is actually a "by-product" of a geo-thermal power plant.  In the 1970s, the power company was drilling in the area about 6000 feet down, and got steam at 450 degrees
temperature, rich in salts and minerals. The heated steam comes from seawater, we are very close to the ocean here, that has seeped into the bedrock.  This was not efficient for direct geothermal hot water, so the plant must seperate steam pressure for electricity, and
heat fresh water for hot water uses.  As the steam is used and cools down, it becomes water, salty and mineral-rich water, that has become The Blue Lagoon. It is blue like the sky, frosty white on the edges from the minerals.

In the 1980s, people saw the beautiful "by-product" pool, and enjoyed swimming in the still warm water.  In 2000, the facilities were upgraded and a new pool was formed with a smooth silty bottom. Only 4 feet deep.

Fellow OAT travelers, Snorri & BK driver

Entering Blue Lagoon through the
lava field

So this is where we go, stopping first for a group photo. Seriously, bad timing when we have no makeup on, it's super windy and cold!

But now we enjoy an amazing relaxing experience I've been so looking forward to! Floating was easy in the salty water, completely submerged except my nose and effortless. There are jets that blow hot and cold spots as you move around the large lagoon. Ooh cold, ooh hot and yummy over here!

Blue Lagoon modern facilities

Blue Lagoon

Several stations offer a white mineral paste to put on your face, worrying Jim that it might make him "too" beautiful. A bar offers refreshments like beer and beverages. A waterfall pounds a massage onto your shoulders.

Lava fields around us, mountains
with ocean behind them

Blue Lagoon, geothermal plant
in the background

Blue Lagoon

Bar at Blue Lagoon

This was a special place, never to be forgotten. Like an oasis in the middle of a barren and rugged lava field. Actually, hard to forget for several days as our hair was coated with the minerals.  It took several washings to get them out, felt matted and stiff until then.

Blue Lagoon hot spot

So, back in the bus, and we get another fun story.  This is about the holidays in Iceland. During Christmas, Icelanders get visited by the 13 Santa Clauses, or "Yule Lads".  One by one, they arrive the 13 days before Christmas, and leave one by one for the 13 days after. They have colorful names like Spoon-Licker, Door-Slammer, Sausage-Swiper. So look out who's
visiting and causing trouble! 

The Pearl in Reykjavik

Now for New Year's, our guide and driver really get happy thinking about this tradition. Fireworks can be purchased from December 27th to January 6th. Anyone over 18 can fire them off. On New Year's Eve, there is a tradition of watching some television show, that "everyone talks about the next day". Then at 11pm, everyone goes outside to shoot off their fireworks. In Reykjavik, the sky lights up for 2 hours from all over the city! And then the partying begins through dawn.

Reykjavik

Back in Reykjavik, Jim and I spend time walking in the "old" town center.

Jim at THE Hot Dog Stand

Still a little spit of rain and cold, but not bad. FIRST STOP, is the FAMOUS HOT DOG STAND. Jim insists on getting his picture taken here!  The dogs are good, there are even special stands for them
on the few wooden tables by the tiny stand. And there is always a line of people!  Jim even was amazed at ordering our "seconds", because the guy making the dogs knew exactly what we wanted on them.

Hot dog holder

Reykjavik old city center

The old town area is much more interesting with a variety of architecture, built before the blossoming outer areas.  We see the Music Hall/Opera House, a contemporary angular glass structure that catches the sunlight in colors.  We see public sculptures in many places.

Reykjavik public art

Reykjavik city street

Reykjavik

 

Looking up at the Lutheran
Church from old city center

Jim in Reykjavik, perfect under the
Icelandic Design sign

Wheels of Lopi wool yarn

We see lots of shops with tourist souvenirs, and a bit of handmade sweaters. I did spot one shop that had some yarn, including the intriguing wheels of Lopi wool, that you must twist and create your own plied strands. Love the colors!

Soft butter on lava rock with bread

Tonight we have our last Iceland dinner with our fellow travelers. An interesting way to
present their soft whipped butter...on a lava rock!  This soft butter we used every day on
the trip, slapped onto the MOST WONDERFUL breads. Iceland bakes bread with soft fluffy
centers and hard crusts, full of flavor, I will miss that.

So...one final partial day to go...

Iceland, Day 9

We leave Selfoss this morning, and it is super windy and rainy and cold. We so enjoyed
yesterday afternoon's clear skies...sigh.  We passed a church graveyard where Bobby
Fischer, the chess master, is buried.

Because of the worst weather day of our trip, there will be no outdoor photos to share.

Greenhouse flowers

Our first stop, however, was indoors. We visit a flower growing business in Reynholt, the town's name means "steam hill". Thermal waters provide inexpensive and plentiful heat, ideal for the hothouses. And hydro-electric power plants provide the electricity for the artificial lighting, also inexpensive.  This particular floral business has a significant
share of cut flowers sales in Iceland, we are treated to some insights into the second generation son who is running it now.

Rainy day flowers

Dodging the pouring rain from the greenhouses, we head to a river rafting camp, and believe it or not...I am going river rafting. With hindsight, it was not a good idea, but I came out of it with minor aches. Jim opted to not do this, oh wise man. 

Reynholt greenhouse

The river rafting company of rugged young men, let's say that they could not see any impediments to having a wonderful time, in driving wind and rain that stings like ice pellets. We managed to put on wetsuits with rips and missing zippers, helmets that let rain through them, wet booties. Life vests looked fine. No gloves, paddles in hand, getting instructions on how to perform various movements upon command. We're already soaked during this briefing, hands frozen, spirits sinking just a little bit.

Reynholt greenhouse owner

After boarding our raft, about 12 of us, we paddle through rapids. Following commands was hard, because it was noisy and windy...yeah, he said paddle forward, no backward, no left back and right forward. Dive and cover not so fun. There were a couple stretches of rapids that were moderately easy and fun when the wind stopped gusting hard. Oh well, I can at least say I paddled 4 miles on a Class 2 river. But nothing much to show for it!

Surviving this experience...we had a long quiet drive back to Reykjavik, all involved just wanted a warm shower. Still raining and cold, Jim and I had dinner at the hotel.  Let me say, that our food was really wonderful on this trip, but meals that Jim and I had on our own seemed to suffer for service. As Iceland does not practice tipping, and has a social safety net, there is no incentive to provide good service IMO.

On the issue of marriage and family values in Iceland, our guide quipped that Icelanders tend to combine their marriage and second child christening ceremonies into one day.

Naming conventions in Iceland are interesting.  Women never take on the name of their husbands...which did pose a problem many years back, when they had difficulty registering in the same hotel room abroad!  Children are given a last name that refers to the first name of their father. Sons have "sson" added to their father's first name, and that forms the child's last name. Daughters have "dottir" added.  So Erik the Red, his son Leif was Leif Eriksson. If Erik had a daughter, her last name was Erikdottir.  In the case of single mothers, they can opt to apply their own first name to create the child's last name, but usually it's the father.

Icelanders also address others on a first-name basis.  No Mr. or Mrs. formalities, even children call elders by their first name, even the Prime Minister is addressed by his first name.  Telephone directories are also listed in First Name alphabetical order...and the Prime Minister is in the directory too.

And another interesting tidbit of information, as long as I'm talking about words.  Iceland has a Word Committee at the University in Reykjavik!  Icelanders are proud of their language, and seek to preserve it.  They try not to adopt words from other languages, instead finding a way to convert it into words of their own...the job of the Word Committee.  When new terms come about, such as "telephone", the Word Committee re-used a word Simi that meant "long line", an old word that was no longer in use.  When "computer" was invented, they combined Icelandic words for Numbers+Prophetess=Toelva.

Iceland, Day 8

tufted farmlands of southern Iceland

After a windy night in Selfoss, we awaken to perhaps a little less wind, rainy, cold.

Weather is Gray

Cold in southern Iceland

Our drive is along the south of Iceland, the lowlands. This area used to be underwater, so the soil mixes seaweed and volcanic ash. As the weather in winter changes from freezing to not-freezing, working the land into little tufts of volcanic rock and soil, making level farming difficult for machinery.

South Iceland farmhouse

Glacier along southern Iceland

Farmers grow oats and barley grain for livestock in the plots that they can maintain level. The advantage to farming here, is that the cool weather prevents insects and the need for pesticides, but fertilizer must be imported for obtaining a decent yield. The average farmer gets 2/3 of his income from government subsidies, as the costs are high, and the
growing season short.

Westman Islands, 7 miles away

Lava or flood plane off glacier

The lowlands do not stretch inland very far before mountains. On our cloudy day, the view is spectacular! The wind, though, is stirring up some ash from the 2010 volcanic eruptions, so we occasionally see a gray-like mist in the distance. In that year, there was an eruption called a "tourist eruption", somewhat benign but spectacular for tourism over 3 weeks. But THEN the big eruption from under the Eyjafjallajokull glacier sent debris into the air, causing major disruptions to airline service in Europe. It also caused melting from within the glacier, which turned into flooding into the lowlands. Lava flows and water rushed to the ocean, and we drove over some of the rebuilt areas.

Lava and flood channel from glacier

Farm on lowland under glacier

Not too far off the coast we can see the Westman Islands group. Several islands about 7 miles off Iceland, they have 4400 residents and the largest fishing port of Iceland. Interestingly, the south coast of the large island of Iceland has no ports, the land here is flat without deep harbors. The youngest Westman Island was created 39 years ago in a volcanic eruption. It has remained uninhabited and protected for study purposes, to see how life naturally evolves.

Farm in south Iceland
with glacier in background

IF YOU WANT TO SEE ANY LARGER IMAGES, CLICK ON THE SMALL ONE, AND YOU CAN VIEW ALL IN A SLIDE SHOW

Solheimajokull glacier

Our first stop is going to be Solheimajokull glacier below Katla mountain. We see hints of it along our drive, it creeps down toward the coast, almost sea level. The glaciers are from the Ice Age, mixed with volcanic eruptions and new layers. Water runs from underneath them, cold rivers to the sea.

Approaching our glacier walk

I am going on my first GLACIER WALK! It is still cold, rainy, windy, and putting on the special cleats over shoes was the first challenge. Learning "The Walk" was fun...feet wide apart and stomp feet down flat as possible, so you get a grip on the ice without tearing your pants.

Solheimajokull glacier, ice and ash

Marcea with her ice ax

River running from under the glacier

I get the hang of it, and celebrate looking like the Ice Trekker with ice ax in hand. The glacier is mixed with lots of volcanic rocks and ash. Just under the top ice layer you can see little rivulets of clear water. And then big deep holes.  And tunnels.  And water rushing down deep holes and tunnels.  We climb a bit, and get a nice view to see how far we've come, a look upward to where we are not going.  Luckily, this isn't a "climbing"
expedition, and we turn back in time for lunch.

Glacier, ice and ash on a
gray day

Marcea and her crampons

On the ice, looking down a
hole

Tunnel in the glacier...
there's more under us that
we will never see

From the glacier, looking
back toward our bus in the
distance

We look up the glacier, not climbing
much further now



Just under the top ice,
you can see a miraculous
world of clear water moving

Leaving the glacier and looking back

Black lava rock beach

Driving away, more views of the glacier.  Our lunch was at a local family hotel/jeep tour/restaurant. After delicious fish and warming up from the cold ice...we leave on a jeep tour of the beach area. The clouds begin to lift and the rain disappears!

Ejafjallajokull from the coast

Lighthouseat Dyrholaey

We explore the Dyrholaey peninsula, starting with a tall outcropping onto which we drive. Phenomenal views!  But the WIND...it can nearly pick you up and toss you off the cliff. It is gusting, so we stay clear of the edge (mom will be glad to hear this).  Below we see a wide black lava beach to the west (on the right, I think we're looking south). In the distance, Eyjafjallajokll still looms, but we can see more of it now!  A lighthouse stands strong up here.

Look what lava rocks form!

Lava rocks at see

Walking further out, we see rugged lava formations, home to lots of birds. This place usually has puffins nesting, but they left a few weeks ago, leaving many of our fellow travelers disappointed. But I don't care...it's the dramatic beauty of the landscape that blows me away, as does the wind!

View in southern Iceland

Marcea on lava rock beach

Jim looking for "just the right rock"

Basalt columns of cliff

To the east is another wide black lava beach. Driving on this, our jeep driver enjoys some spinning in the pooling water. Yep, great fun, he's a young guy who grew up on his family farm here on the coast.  The beach has tons of flat black lava rocks which Jim enjoys gathering, the surf is rough, and we are warned of rogue waves that carried away inattentive tourists.  Walking just around one hill that has intriguing basalt columns, is a fabulous carved out cave, where the lava formations are naturally artistic.

Footsteps in lava rocks

Carved out under the cliff

Iceland formations

More views include a rather phallic-looking lava rock past the surfline.  Our guide tells us that Russell Crowe and Tom Cruise have been filming here recently...so we'll look for these scenes in film someday.

Jim on an Iceland beach walk

Marcea's shadow

Looking toward Vik

Back in the jeep, we head up to the top of another outcropping. This time, we start out in a little town of Vik, taking a steep and narrow path winding up the side.  The wind miraculously has subsided, and so we relish the views with blue sky in the background. Up here, we enjoy views of the same rocks seen from the beach below, as well as Vik. And one more look at Eyjafjallajokull now that all the clouds are gone!

Black lava beach

Speaks for itself

Eyjafjallajokull

Leaving Vik at the end of our jeep ride, it's back on the bus and heading toward Selfoss in the west.  We pass a sunny view of our glacier...imagine that just a few hours ago we walked in wind and rain on this...constant confirmation that the weather is truly changeable in Iceland.

passing "our" glacier again in the SUN

Skogafoss

Skogafoss is just off the road, waterfall is 200 feet high. We enjoy late afternoon views that include a rainbow!  Just before we leave, we watch a little plan swooping down and up on the fields that stretch to the ocean. He has a little fun with us, diving down toward the bus and pulling up. At least, we think it's in fun.

Rainbow in Skogafoss

Farm under glacier

Just Plane Fun

Seljafalandsfoss

Just a little way farther, more water is pouring off the Eyjafjallajokull glacier, into the farmland valley and Markarfljor riverbed.  Seljalandsfoss, located on the Seljalan farm, has wispy flows of water that seem to blow like ribbons as the wind direction changes. Then of course, flowing water creates its own wind, so the entire thing is fascinating. Visitors can walk behind the falls...and Snorri gets sopping wet with one of the direction changes. 

Rainbow in Seljalandsfoss

Yet again, we are treated to rainbows...two of them...in the late afternoon sun!

Walking behind a falls and a rainbow

Seljalandsfoss

Selfoss and Olfusa River, in the sun

Today is done, with one more photo of the Olfusa River outside our Selfoss hotel room...this time in clear sky. Jim and I have one of our best dinners tonight on our own...monkfish wrapped in bacon.

Monkfish is just another of the fish found off Iceland coasts and in the rivers that we have enjoyed...including cod, salmon, trout, wolf-fish, and Arctic char.