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Heading north of Reykjavik
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Only a short first day in Reykjavik yesterday, then we move out in our tour bus. We'll come back to Reykjavik at the end of the trip.
Rather as an aside of interesting information...there are no Starbucks or McDonalds in Iceland! There was a McDonalds in Reykjavik, but it went bankrupt in the 2008 financial crisis. There are however Subway and KFC.
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Reykjavik in the distance
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| Farm along the coast |
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| Simple styles of Iceland farmhouses |
The scenery changes dramatically outside of the town where 2/3 of the people live. The western coast transforms into low-lying farmland with volcanic mountains just behind everywhere you look. The region is called Borgarfjordur.
Large covered building house pig and poultry farms. They are kept out of the weather, and largely consumed just within Iceland. Farming is heavily subsidized for the local markets...ie, general taxes on citizens are subsidizing their own food.
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| Iceland west coastland |
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| Borgarnes |
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| Borgarfjordur (fjord) |
Many of the open fields are for hay and grasses. Immediately after cutting, bales are wrapped in air-tight plastic. They will dry and become fodder, we see white and green plastic everywhere.
Less than an hour outside Reykjavik, we must cross a fjord. A tunnel runs 4 miles underneath the fjord, up to 500 feet below sea level. It was privately built and paid with a toll.
The largest industry for Iceland is the aluminum smelting. We see the second of 3 smelters in the agriculatural region here. Aluminum smelting consumes 85% of the power generated, and yet there is plenty of power for all in the national grid that circles the island. The other major industries are fish/fish processing, then tourism.
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| Icelandic horses |
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| Borgarfjordur |
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| typical summer home in Borgarfjordur |
Horses are in abundance in Iceland, we'll go to a horse farm later in the trip. We learn in the meantime that most every farmer has several horses. They are easy to maintain, needed to round up sheep from hills (as well as dogs), and can be sold for profit.
Also in the agricultural area are summer homes. It is common for workers' unions to own them, and offer time to employees, like teachers.
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| Yarn in typical grocery market |
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| Borgarfjordur view |
We made a pit stop, and I got to see YARN! Knitting is common for Icelanders, and I found this in a general market. Worth a colorful photo!
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| Hraunfossar, falls from lava rock |
Inland we see the most amazing waterfalls. One flow of water comes down the mountains underneath the top layer of lava, but the ground is less porous underneath, so the water flows out between layers at Hraunfossar. Another flow of water from the White River rushes to meet the lava springs. The water is such a deep blue, the falls crystal white, we are having a splash of rain and it is refreshingly chilly.
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| Hraunfossar |
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| Jim at Hraunfossar falls |
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| Marcea at Hraunfossar |
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| Hraunfossar |
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| Deildartunguhver thermal area |
Within the Borgarfjordur area are thermal pools. The earth's crust is thinner through here, so the magma underneath heats the water table. In several places we see steam rising. At Deildartunguhver, the water boils upward at 212 degrees and 50 gallons per second, making it the highest flow of any hot spring in Europe. The smell is sulphuric rotten eggs. The ground is so warm, the steam so thick you can barely see the rushing water. This water is harnessed for energy to nearby towns, we see pipes running out all directions.
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Snorri Sturluson Bath
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| Deildartunguhver thermal area |
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| Borgarnes |
With the proximity of the thermal water, hot houses can grow vegetables for Icelanders. We tried some of the hot house tomatos...very tasty!
A smaller thermal pool is at a location where a noted writer and politician once lived, Snorri Sturlusson (1178-1241). He wrote some of the historical Sagas of Icelandic and Norse tales. I'm not familiar with that, but he is highly regarded here. And in fact, our guide Snorri is a decendant!
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| Borgarnes |
A pretty town in the hot springs region is Borgarnes. But what was sad to see were many new, empty buildings. A developer went bankrupt in the 2008 financial crisis, the buildings never sold. A tiny beach offered an opportunity to feel the sea water...quite cold naturally. The view from a hill where a cool sculpture, was something special in the biting wind.
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| Sculpture at Borgarnes |
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| Crater in Borgarfjordur region |
Driving toward Stykkisholmur we see a small crater rising dramatically from the flat lands just at the sea's edge. It is 5000 years old, and has a name I cannot recall that is supposed to mean "fortress of fire". Off in the distance is a rather intriguing peak that glows in the sunlight. Our guide believes it has ryolite stone facing.
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| Ryolite peak in Borgarfjordur |
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| Lava field |
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| Lava field |
A "young" lava field, just 1000 years old, is rugged black and so desolate amidst the rest of the landscape. It stretches from the sea to an amazing viewpoint inland. We go there to taste dried fish that is stiff like jerky, dipped in soft butter. Salty and fishy. Followed by a taste of licorice covered in chocolate. Little treats in a dramatic landscape! The landscape yields just a little bit of plantlife in the puffy cotton flower...its stem is used for candle wicks.
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| Icelandic tradition...dried fish in butter |
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| Cotton flower in lava field |
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| Rain coming |
Near the end of our day, we stop at scenic Helgafell, a small hill that is considered "holy" because of a monastic past. It was raining heavily just before we got there, and we enjoyed watching the heavy showers move in the distance. It's cold enough for Jim to wear his new scarf! He also befriends a dog...but the dog runs away from all us gals. Our more nimble-footed friends climbed the hill, hoping for a "wish to come true" as legend promises.
IF YOU WANT TO SEE LARGER PHOTOS, CLICK ON ANY IMAGE, YOU CAN VIEW ALL IN A SLIDE SHOW
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| Jim needs his new scarf |
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| View in Helgafell |
Finally, we get to our hotel in Stykkisholmur. Looks like a pretty little town...but we're staying in for a good rest tonight!
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| Stykkisholmur |
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Stykkisholmur
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